I Mulini a Vento di kinderdijk – Olanda

Famosa per i suoi colori che a metà primavera raggiungono il massimo splendore, L’Olanda ed i suoi tulipani nel mese di Marzo iniziano la loro fioritura, trasformando il volto di ogni strada, edificio e campagna, illuminando di arcobaleno ogni angolo delle città, rendendoli luminosi anche nelle sere più buie. Se si ha la fortuna di visitare il Keukenhof Garden proprio in quel periodo, si fa un tuffo in una realtà che sembra tratta da una fiaba, credo che anche tu avrai visto almeno una volta nella vita Alice nel Paese delle meraviglie, quando lei in un pomeriggio si ritrova in mezzo ad un campo di fiori dove cantano e ballano per lei, ebbene, alla vista di quella armoniosa e variegata prateria di tulipani dai colori indecifrabili, ti capiterà ti rivivere quella scena, ti verrà voglia di correre, di cantare, di esclamare di continuo wow!!

L’olanda non è solo questo, è molto di più, è una capitale ricca si di paesaggi e di storia, ma sicuramente anche di divertimento e trasgressione, basta pensare alla capitale, Amsterdam.  Diciamo che chiunque trova la sua strada, la sua dimensione.

Ma c’è un posto tra i canali silenziosi di questo paese che mi ha colpito molto per ciò che mi ha lasciato dentro, come un affluente si fa strada tra le insenature che incontra lungo il suo percorso, Kinderdijk, lo ha fatto con me. Definisco questa cittadina uno spicchio di mondo che va assaporato con tutti i sensi, va annusato, va osservato, accarezzato e toccato con delicatezza, cosi come fecero le acque dei canali  Weteringen durante l’alluvione più ingente che invase l’Olanda nel 1420. Secondo una leggenda, si narra che le acque trasportarono per miglia una culla con dentro un bambino ed un gatto, che quando giunsero in questa pianura, a quel tempo ancora senza nome, adagiarono dolcemente sulla diga la cesta, donando appunto il nome ancora oggi usato Kinderdijk (diga dei bambini).

Quel giorno non avevo una meta ben precisa nella mia mente, come la quasi totalità dei miei viaggi. Avevo lo zaino in spalla, le cuffie e voglia di camminare. Avevo visto ogni angolo di Rotterdam, cosi mi spinsi un po’ fuori città fino ad arrivare a Barendrechtse Brug, luogo che consiglio di vedere se si dispone di tempo. Trascorsa parte della mattina li, mi misi nuovamente in cammino, decidendo di prendere l’autobus e lasciarmi guidare dall’istinto. Incontrai un singolare autista, un uomo robusto, con baffi bianchi, capelli ordinati, dall’aria seria ma allo stesso tempo sorridente. Appena salito a bordo, con fare gentile mi chiese dove fossi diretto, non sapevo dare una risposta, non avevo una meta, cosi risposi semplicemente di non saperlo, mi sorrise con gli occhi, e mi disse di sedermi al primo posto, e la cosa più strana non mi fece pagare neppure il biglietto. Rimango sempre meravigliato dalle persone che incontro in circostanze fortuite, perché hanno nei miei confronti una cortesia e una  premura che mi sorprende ogni volta. Appena 20 minuti dopo, perso ad ammirare ogni paesaggio che fino a poco tempo pensavo fosse solo creato per sponsorizzare le riviste, l’autista accostò l’autobus sul bordo della strada dicendomi che quella era la mia fermata, e con l’indice mi indicò la direzione che dovevo percorrere a piedi. Nel suo viso c’era fierezza, i suoi occhi gioivano di un dono fatto, lo ringraziai mille volte e andai, ma continuavo a chiedermi cosa celasse la sua espressione compiaciuta.

Capii la sua soddisfazione solo quando alla fine della Molenkade Nederwaard davanti ai miei occhi si pararono quei  giganti dall’aspetto rude, consumato dal tempo o forse dalla storia, ma che nonostante l’apparenza, nei loro movimenti si tradivano. I Mulini di Kinderdijk hanno dei movimenti talmente modesti e docili, che ti fanno capire la vera natura celata dietro le dimensioni .

I Due canali sono separati da una lunga passerella di terra che si estende per tutta la lunghezza della pianura, lasciando a ridosso delle rive la fila dei 19 mulini a vento, ma la cosa sorprendente, è che per quanto possa essere scontato osservare dei limiti, Il paesaggio è a perdita d’occhio. Una  bassa vegetazione punteggiata da qualche albero qua e là, canneti, alcuni girasoli e altri fiori di color giallo o viola fanno da cornice all’intera zona. Le emozioni che ti assalgono sono molteplici, ti vien voglia di correre, andar veloce e vedere tutto il prima possibile, ma come detto prima è un posto che va esplorato lentamente. Quando ti avvicini ad un mulino ti senti piccolo, e quasi minacciato dalla sua mole, ma non appena entri al suo interno, è come arrivare dritto alla sua anima, rivivi la vita che un tempo i mugnai facevano in queste terre, tra questi canali, ti senti come catapultato nel passato, in trama moderna. Una volta fuori dal mulino, quando ti volterai per guardarlo ancora, e osserverai le sue grosse pale che sfiorano l’acqua, il fumo che fuori esce dal camino, non avrai più la sensazione intimorita di prima ma sentirai scivolarti addosso la loro benevolenza, e quasi ti sembrerà affiorare su quella facciata un sorriso.

Stabilire quanto tempo trascorrere qui sia sufficiente, per sederti in una delle tante panchine a leggere, a chiacchierare, o semplicemente  rimanere ipnotizzato da un paesaggio che ha dei continui movimenti impercettibili ma presenti, è difficile. Ma ti consiglio di aspettare fino a quando le ombre si allungano, i mulini cambiano colore e si avvicina il magico imbrunire. Tutto si farà più silenzioso, cala quel velo di mistero e leggenda fino a rendere sempre più, Kinderdijk, una fiaba, e mentre alcune pale continueranno a muoversi sospinte dal vento, altre si saranno già fermate attendendo la mattina seguente per rimettersi in moto, e tu sarai ancora incerto di sognare o vivere davvero quella magia.

  • Autore dell'articolo:
  • Categoria dell'articolo:Viaggi

Questo articolo ha 114 commenti.

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    L’Olanda, terra di fiabe, ti ammalia con i suoi mulini senza tempo, i suoi canali e i fiori… Sembra quasi che tutto ciò influisca sui suoi abitanti, sorridenti e gentili, ti aprono sempre la porta di casa.

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